La Via Tolosana (France) & Camino Aragones (Spain): "The Arles Route" GR653

La Via Tolosana (France) & Camino Aragones (Spain): "The Arles Route" GR653
La Via Tolosana (France) & Camino Aragones (Spain): "The Arles Route" GR653

OUR INTENTIONS

PLEASE READ: Our Camino For Alzheimer's Awareness will begin on World Azheimer's Day, September 21, 2018 in Lodève, France about 130 kms west of Arles (underlined on the map above and circled on the route profile at the bottom of the page). We plan to walk together just over 800 kms to Puente la Reina, Spain where Annemarie will determine her next steps. It is, however, Geoff's intention to continue onwards a further 700 kms towards Santiago de Compostela. To put this into perspective, the total distance is about the same as from Victoria to Santa Barbara, California. As usual, we will accept the journey as it unfolds and we are appreciative of any and all support. If you feel moved to contribute to the Alzheimer Society please click on either of the really obvious RED BUTTONS to the right or at the bottom of this page and you will be transferred to the Society's fund raising site. We are paying our own expenses and all money raised will go directly to the Alzheimer Society.

If you wish to receive email notifications when we blog, just enter your email address where indicated on the right side of this page.

Wednesday, October 31, 2018

Étape 41: Calzadilla - Sahagun - Leon, 25 kms, Sun and Cloud, 10

A Strategic Decision 

I’m sitting in the bar at the train station in Sahagun where I’ve just enjoyed a nice tortilla y patata and a cold glass of Aquarius. Today I was away fairly early to walk to Sahagun in order to catch a train to Leon, about 45-50 kms. I’ve only taken one rest day on this Camino, the last one being two weeks ago with Annemarie in Jaca. I had been planning to take a day in Leon, but if I’d walked in my day off would have been this Sunday when everything is closed. With this little adjustment I will be there tomorrow and walk out Saturday morning. I wasn’t planning to re-walk the Roman Road so my walk would have been alongside a busy highway. Gronze calls it a very flat stage beside a very busy highway and rates the stage quality as very low. I will have one more day of Meseta walking when I leave Leon which will be a nice way to wind up this part of the Camino. I’ve been listening to my body and the past couple of days it’s been telling me to take a restorative day as it’s called in yoga. So I will and I’m really looking forward to it. Leon is a very nice city with lots to see and good restaurants. This will be my third visit there, so it’s become quite comfortable and familiar.

Dinner last night was hilarious. I sat with a Japanese peregrino who lives by Temple 1 on Shikoko where the 88 Temple walk begins. Same age as me. He walked the Henro last fall after I’d walked it in the spring, so there was lots to discuss and it gave me an opportunity to use my sparse, rusty Japanese.

It’s his first time out of Japan and he speaks no other language. I ordered his meal for him having a very good idea what he would prefer to eat. He seemed pleased and proceeded to drink most of our bottle of wine! As he did so he told me that he’s carrying a tent because that’s not unusual in Japan. However, it is unusual on the Frances and it’s heavy and too cold to use it. We enjoyed a very lively evening using our phone app translators. We discussed Alzheimer’s and he acknowledged it’s a problem in his country. An aging population there is of course creating many problems. 

I also want to relate that the night before I had dinner with a peregrino from Lithuania who is working in Dublin doing construction projects. He was a younger guy and very funny. We seemed to be laughing all the way through the meal, but maybe that was just the wine? He told me that there is no Alzheimer’s in his family, one of the few I’ve met who doesn’t have some family connection with the disease. The family who owns the small rural hotel fed us a half chicken each plus a beautiful salad. It was a nice evening, and the next morning I was served a wonderful breakfast of ham and eggs! Wow! The mother prepared it for me and thanked me for staying there. Most peregrinos stop before at Formista. I’m finding the smaller centres are putting me a pin a very small window where there are few peregrinos, but as you’ll see that changed today.

I awoke to clearing skies and happily saw the sunrise.

A simple breakfast of toast and tea and I was on my way at a good pace to make sure I arrived here in time for the train. 

More highway walking much of the day which confirmed my decision to jump to Leon. However, the blue skies helped to mitigate the road. The mountains were closer and clearer today, and again I wondered how much snow I’m going to find up high just days ahead. I’ve read that the Napoleon route behind me has quite a bit of snow and has been closed to pilgrims until April for safety reasons. 



Just before Ledigos I found the huge arrow made of stones that I photographed last time through and a photo of it hangs on our wall at home. I prefer the first photo I took over this one.

Getting closer.

Remember our stay here Annemarie? It’s locked down for the winter as are many of the albergues from today onwards. There will be fewer places open going forward towards Santiago.

And another boot bites the dust!

I passed a reminder that many people die while walking the Camino each year. I’ve seen a number of these on my way across. I think that there have been at least 7 deaths for various reasons this season alone. Peregrinos who for whatever reason do not complete their expected journey. There are obvious parallels to Alzheimer’s.

I see quite @ few of these straw based houses, but thi# one caught m6 arrention with the blue shutters and door!

Later...
Ok, I’m now in Leon. Climbed on board, found my seat and fell asleep. Woke as the train was coming into the station. 
Back to the walk...I met an Italian fellow today who had seen Alex from Ottawa approaching Burgos and he was quite exhausted, but otherwise ok. Taking a couple of days off in Burgos so it’s unlikely our patches will cross again. The Italian fellow kindly took my photo at the next boundary. I have a photo of Annemarie, Ken and Marianne here.





I caught up to over 30 peregrinos today. By far the most I’ve seen on any single day. I think the longer distances I’ve recently put in has resulted in my basically jumping a traditional stage and finding the next lot. Sometimes peregrinos kind of stack up together making everything a bit busier. When I depart Leon they should arrive later that day and most like me, will take a day here. This particular bubble should hopefully stay behind me. 

That’s Sahagun in the background of the above photo. Just before entering town we passed the halfway distance markers from Roncevalles. So those who began the Frances are half way to Santiago. Those are three French walker who I’ve learned often like to carry huge packs as if they are going to Everest! 



I on the other hand am about 80% of the way there with just 320 kms to walk. A nice feeling, and I’m looking forward to the climbs ahead. I find all the flat walking wears on me after a while and the change-up in a couple of days might feel good. I should have one full day of the Meseta left to cross. I plan to look ahead a bit and see how things might break out keeping in mind that I have to be out of the Schengen Zone in a couple of weeks. 


The inside of my somewhat upscale hotel. Annemarie told me to stay in the Paradore, but it’s closed for renovations.this is more central and closer to restaurants, the cathedral and several museums. 

Annemarie climbed onto her plane home this morning. So I’m a little more alone tonight. We will reconnect in a couple of weeks unless she’s away on a contract when I return which means perhaps we will see each other in 3-4 weeks. Such is life. She sent this and one other to me to share.

Sudden changes: Geoff has written about the sudden temperature change he has experienced; it was sudden and dramatic, requiring some significant adjustments to his wardrobe, accommodation arrangements, and route choices. Sometimes the Alzheimer’s journey takes a sudden turn as well. Whether it’s expecting or not (the change in weather was predicted) it’s still a bit of a shock when it happens, and requires more adjustments than might have initially been anticipated. For someone with Alzheimer’s and their caregivers a sudden change may be the result of a significant illness or a trigger that speeds the progression. The impact can include an end to activities they may have previously enjoyed, or an increase in the support services required. However they happen, these types of changes take an emotional toll.


For Ken.


Buen Camino!



Étape 40: Poblacion - Calzadilla de la Cueza, 34 kms, Grey Unsettled Skies, 8

Meseta Magic

After all it is Halloween, and I found these kids in the first village I passed through. I’m not sure if they really understand the whole idea, but they were dressed appropriately.

I have to say that the first 17 kms didn’t seem too magical today as I walked for 17 kms along side the highway passing a couple of old tired villages in the process.





This definitely didn’t give me magical thoughts, but I saw a sign later in the day that said 455 kms, and I felt a little better. It’s actually under 400 kms from where I’m sleeping tonight.

I saw only one other walker on route today as I was heading towards Carrión and he was moving very slowly. At Carrion I kept a promise to myself and stopped for an early lunch. 

I’ve pushed my pace the last few stages and decided to give myself an easier time today. Yesterday it was the threat of rain that kept me moving along, and today there seemed less risk most of the time.

Town square.

Last time we were here most of the town was closed as it was Sunday. Today, everything was open.

I was soon heading out of town.



And down another long road for the second 17 km stretch, but this time I was playing some old soulful Zeppelin and other favourites to keep me going. Thank god for 🎵!

As I think I was saying a couple of days ago, there is some real divergence of opinion as to whether one should walk or skip the Meseta. Many think the high plateau is very boring while others find the simpler walking provides time for deeper reflection. I’m in the second camp, but this morning I couldn’t wait to get away from the road and the traffic. When I slowed myself down after lunch...

...I found the other side of the Meseta. 



Long flat nothingness 
Lonesome trees dot the skyline 
Times of soulful thoughts



Distant horizons 
Magic of the Meseta 
Clouds touching the earth



Mountains to the north
Snow covers peaks already
What waits up the road?




And for AB,

Feet kissing the Earth
As I grind down lonely roads,
I’m thinking of you



Annemarie has taken pity on me given my longer days and sent me a couple of Alzheimer entries to post before flying home tomorrow. 

Decision making: since he’s been walking on his own, Geoff has had to make a number of decisions that we would make together when walking; places to stay, route changes or adjustments to his overall plan. These decisions sometimes impact me, but not always, and it is his practice to check in with me. For people with Alzheimer’s and their caregivers the decision making process that was in place before diagnosis shifts over time. In the early stages, it is important to involve the person with Alzheimer’s as much as possible, but as the disease progresses, this becomes less feasible, and the caregiver is increasingly required to make decisions that impact the other person. This increased responsibility can become uncomfortable, especially if they didn’t have the opportunity to discuss possible scenarios in advance in the early stages of the disease.


Almost lastly, when I arrived today I ordered a beer to take to my room where I sit writing this. I can hear Bruce having a good laugh. No buzz!! I guess this was the ‘trick’.

And lastly, our daughter Caitlin was baking treats to take to the children at Children’s Hospital in Vancouver today. She has a very big heart!


And now I’m going down to the bar to find my ‘treat’!

Buen Halloween!








Tuesday, October 30, 2018

Étape 39: Castrojeriz - Poblacion de Campos, 30 kms, cool, a little rain, grey, 0-5

Back To The Beginning

I woke to the sound of rain in the street. Not really what I was looking for, but early morning rain had been forecast. I took my time getting ready and walked down the street for breakfast hoping the rain would abate and by the time I headed out of town it was pretty much a drizzle. Of course the first thing on the agenda when leaving Castrojeriz is a lung busting climb! However, it wasn’t so bad and the view from the top was still pretty nice, though I enjoyed a much sunnier view 5 years ago.

A little reminder of the climb, and as you can see it’s the complete opposite from yesterday.

A sort hike across he top of the mesa and I found what I’d come to see today.

Yup a road sign with a very steep down hill! However, there’s more to the story. It was while walking down this hill alone (Annemarie was injured and hitched a ride with the baggage truck) that I made my decision to retire. The purpose of my first Camino. 

I figured by waiting today for the rain to die down that there would be others out ahead of me. I guess they all made the same decision. How sid I figure that out?

Mine were the only foot prints in the clay gumbo mud! For the uninitiated this is really nasty stuff to walk through. Fortunately it lasted for only a while until better footing was found, but my boots bear the scars. 

I was looking forward to visiting the Puente Fiteeo (/building on the left) again, but sadly it was closed. However I did get to cross the 11 arched bridge which was also a good memory as by chance I spoke with Annemarie briefly as she crossed in the truck. 

There you go a Neil!

The Provincial boundary marker has been spruced up with a better home as well. 

After Itero there was a long slow climb that I remembered well.

Once over the hill things didn’t look quite as nice with lots of moisture in the air and the clouds seemed to skim by over my head just out of reach.

More rain was definite a possibility, but generally it was just an Irish mist with a bit of rain. I kept my poncho away and my gortex again worked out quite well. A reminder that fall is well underway in Spain!

And then I arrived at the Canal de Castilla and I knew that I had about 3 kms to walk before lunch. 

It’s a bit like walking in Holland along the canal. I thought that the first time, and had no reason to change my mind this time.

Then at the end of the canal.

And it was in to Fromista for lunch where I also had a quick second look at the 11th C Iglesia de San Martin, one of the best Romanesque churches in Spain.

From there on to Poblacion where I’m in a small hotel up top in a loft room. The rain is steadily bouncing off the skylight so I’ll know if it’s raining tomorrow before I even get up! In France some weeks ago walking in the heat and the sun I said to Annemarie that I would think fondly of those days as I slogged through the wet and cold that I knew was waiting in Spain. I was right! 




Buen Camino!