Étape 49: Portomarin - Palas de Rei, 25 kms, Sun, Cloud, Rain, 8

Steak & Boiled Potatoes!

I’m sitting in a Pulperia where they specialize in octopus and I’m eating a late lunch while I listen to this table of older fellas shouting to be heard. I wonder if they have hearing aids in this part of Spain? If I still have room I plan to return for pulpo y patatas tonight!

I’m also consuming a huge steak and a bunch of boiled potatoes that I specially asked for. No more frites please. All this washed down with the specialty white wine of Galicia, Albariño, which I discovered to my delight in 2013. The potatoes now have pepper on them as I’ve learned to carry pepper in Spain where it’s not commonly put on tables. I’m eating a huge lunch because I missed dinner last night and breakfast was just a piece of dried toast, juice and tea. By the time I finished my chores and the blog last night it was already late and it was storming out, so I had no appetite (yes, a pun) to go outside in the rain and try to find a bar. It seems that beer I drank when I came in yesterday was quite filling:)

I looked out this morning and it seemed to be a clear sky, so I headed off without my pack cover on for the first time in days. It gave me the chance to advertise our purpose as my colours were in full display and my Japanese bell was ringing...drives the dogs crazy!



If anyone is still wondering if I walked down the outside of the bridge where it’s considered very exposed for those who have a fear of heights, I took this photo this morning and I had to lean out to get it! Not to shabby heh?

Yup, making slow progress on many fronts. Bruce, you’ve got to try this! I’m sure it will help...

Most seasoned walkers know that when you end your day by descending steeply into a river valley, chances are that you’ll start your next day by climbing out of said valley. Sadly that principal held up today. However, with my purpose flag on the back of my pack, I was in a position to advertise to a whole new group of people on the way up. I think I passed 30-40 folks on the way up, none of whom I’d met before. This is largely the group that started yesterday in Sarria. A small sample from later in the morning. A few started further back, but there are many newer walkers now. You can tell from their clean boots and clothes.

Early light.



I finally found some of the grain storage bins that were made of wood. They are becoming quite rare now with the wood often replaced by brick which doesn’t require care, but looks pretty shabby. Iconic symbol of Galicia in my mind. 

My second glass of Albariño has just arrived. Hey, it’s now 15:15 and I passed on dessert. Besides at $2 a glass it’s a steal here and I’ll soon be back at home in the land of the $12 glass of wine. 

Eventually I had to stop to put my pack cover on as the rain was beginning to sweep in. I was happy though with over two dry hours to begin the day. As I was walking I heard someone approach from behind. This doesn’t happen too often so I was curious who the new comer was. When he stopped after passing to get out his water bottle I asked him about his Camino. We started wot walk together and that continued to my destination. David is an architect MA student at U of Washington in Seattle who lives in Alaska with his family. He told me that he worked on a fire suppression crew all summer going up and down steep mountains carrying a heavy pack. That’s why he walks quickly. He started in St. Jen and it appears that our pathes have crisscrossed as they do for days and that’s why we haven’t met. He told me that I’m the only person he’s met who can walk with him because he doesn’t like to walk slower as it hurts. Something in common! As we were walking and talking we saw something that we city dwellers don’t see every day. Pigs being processed on a farm...skip ahead if you aren’t interested in knowing where your pork ribs come from. I found it quite interesting and we watched for a while.

We walked some pretty country, but we were so busy walking and talking that I took very few photos.

We arrived into Palas and said our goodbyes. David went to find a cafe and then walk on and I went to find my small room which turned out to be off the back of a bar. Just fine, but I was expecting something a bit different. Being in early I took the opportunity to wash more of my cloths than usual. For example, I washed my black merino shirt that I’ve been wearing every day for weeks to keep warm as I walk. When I come in I just hang it to dry then put it on the next day...it almost climbs onto me by itself now. I decided that it needed a cleaning after 7 weeks and boy was the water brown when I finished. It should make it home and my next clothes wash will be in Santiago where I’ll stay for two nights, depending on flights home. I’ve decided to push it and finish the last 70 kms with stages of 30 and 40 which will bring me in on Monday afternoon. Tuesday is supposed to be sunny and I’d rather be in the sun sight seeing and eating at my favourite restaurant and tapas bars than walking. It’s time.

Shared experiences: While the number of pilgrims increase each year, walking a Camino remains a relatively unique experience. When we return home, it is frequently an adjustment as we work back into our regular lifestyle and our friends and family quickly tire of our stories. 

During the time we were on the trail, we have lived more simply, we have engaged with our surroundings differently than we do when at home. We have met people, had deep discussions with them, and formed strong relationships based in our shared experiences. The members of my support group have expressed a similar experience - the importance of finding others who have had a common experience, and the opportunity to discuss and share their stories and questions. This helps to overcome the burden of isolation, that frequently accompanies Alzheimer’s . In both instances, they will join a support group and we form strong bonds with people we might otherwise never have met. 

Étape 48: Triacastela - Portomarin, 43 kms, Cloud, Brisk Winds, Rain, 5

Stuff Happens

I’m sitting here, where I wasn’t supposed to be sitting, at the end of a long day sipping on my favourite Spanish beer. I guess it all worked out ok in the end. My gear is hung to dry, I’m in my best and cleanest dirty clothes, and I’m showered. Could be worse. 

I was up early this morning knowing that I had a long stretch of road ahead of me. I wanted to get past Sarria where so many start their Camino and walk the shortest distance possible to qualify for their compostela. No problem with that, but I’d planned to finish later in the first stage typically walked by this group. It can be a bit tough to mingle with folks who are on their first stage late in your own walk, and I wanted a bit of space from this. In any event, in 2013 Annemarie, Ken and I walked to Sarria via Samos where there is a cool monastery. This time I wanted to try the other route via San Xil. It’s a bit shorter, but what I wasn’t aware of until late last night is that there is a 250 metre climb to kick start the day. It wasn’t a problem, but I’d hoped to stay a bit drier for a while instead of getting all sweaty in the cool of the morning. Since when does the Camino provide you with what you need? I was walking in the late morning dark with just a touch of light behind me in the mountains. It was really quite nice. As I climbed the roosters on the farms started to crow. I caught up to a bunch of chicks and just as I was taking the shot, mom chased them out of harms way. I have a focused shot too, but I really like the low light action in this one.

At the top of the climb I looked back and the sun was making a brief appearance.

It popped in and out for a while. Things were looking surprisingly good to the west and I hoped it would hold as I understand there is a major storm on its way.

I connected with a herd and had to take some photos. Look at the horns and catch the lady who is very close to giving birth. She’s huge!

Then there were the horses who wanted their noses scratched. Yup, we provide most services on Camino!

Then a gate shot for Neil with some quite dry and wind shaken corn stocks.

Sarria came into view, but it’s still some two hours away. I always find it interesting just how long it takes to walk into a village or city when you first see it from a distance.

I did eventually arrive in Sarria and passed through quickly. The morning peregrino departures had mostly happened and I was to come across quite a few as the day progressed. Some really hurting on their first day out. This is looking back at Camino Road (not its real name) where you pretty much only find businesses that cater to the tens of thousands who pass through here or start from here each year.

Looking back towards the mountains and to the south as I proceeded there was clearly rain around and I seemed to be walking in a bit of a bubble as I ambled down the typically beautiful Galician countryside. It really is beautiful here.

There is a solid climb out of Sarria just to let those new to the Camino know that they aren’t going to be pampered too much.

The wind came up sharply as I moved along and I wondered how long I was going to avoid the rain. 

I remembered this place from last time and decided to take a self portrait here.

The beautiful setting just continued to unfold. You wouldn’t even need to paint a gate like this. I’m thinking of getting us one.

I finally found a place to get lunch about 33 kms into the day. I went inside to find it full of the Sarria stage walkers. I’d caught up to many of them and central in the group was my Venezuelan friend who took a bus from Triacastela and walked from Sarria today. She has a limited time and hopes that she can still get her compostela even if she doesn’t walk all of the last 100 kms. Not sure if this is possible, but I guess she can try. Lunch plus two tins of Aquarius plus two Kit Kat bars for later, $12. 

Then I arrived at the 100 km waypoint. Amazingly 1400 behind me and just 100 (now 94) left. Happy day!! 

It had been raining steadily since lunch and the wind had picked up making for nice fall walking. Yup, my favourite.

I’d booked an albergue on line and when I arrived I found it closed for the season. I tried phoning them twice, but no answer. It’s a pretty remote albergue and I figured that the best thing I could do was to walk on the six kilometres to Portomarin and find lodgings when I arrived. Sometimes stuff happens and all you can do is shrug and move on. By now it was pouring...of course. I reached the bridges to Portomarin and while the river was high, the reservoir was clearly empty. Great view of the newer bridge and the ancient Roman bridge. The whole Roman and medieval settlement was moved before the valley was damed and flooded.

The first time I arrived expecting the reservoir to be full just like it was on my map. But it was all gone as it is in the above photo. I had to walk down the middle of the bridge because of the height. This time? Only I was there to tell the tale! 

The old settlements.





“Nobody Walks Alone”: In following Geoff’s journey since I left two weeks ago, it’s clear that it is more difficult to walk alone than to walk with a partner. While Geoff has always enjoyed walking on his own, there are extra challenges in doing so. It’s easier to miss a turn, there are more risks should an injury occur, and of course there are the challenges of loneliness and isolation. He has, of course, been communicating with friends and family and has met people along the way, and these encounters have often been uplifting. The B.C. Alzheimer’s Society’s new mission statement “Nobody Walks Alone”, recognizes that dementia is a difficult journey, and walking it alone, without a support, is especially difficult. Information, education, support groups, research and outreach can all make a big difference. 



Buen Camino....

Étape 47: Las Herrerias - Triacastela, 30 kms, heavy rain, high winds, 3

Even The Ducks Were Hiding!

However you will have to wait to read about it until tomorrow. Wifi here is terrible. All well.

Seems there is a bit of wifi in the albergue, but not much. So I will try to post as it didn’t work in the bar.

I headed for the climb and was passed by the first skateboarder I’ve ever seen on the Camino! I caught up to him at the decision point, road or trail.

I left him sorting it out and headed for the trail. It wasn’t raining yet, but it didn’t look good so I climbed as quickly as I could in order to get as far as I could before the inevitable. I took no photos through the forest as it was very dark in there and I knew that the better views were up above after the first 5 kms. So I climbed. There are many I’ve met who were a bit worried about the climb, but while it starts steeply, seemingly most people make it. 

Once above the forest it opened up and looked so much like Ireland and Scotland. The rain held off and I pushed onwards having walked this climb with Annemarie in the rain and wind. I knew what that felt like and it wasn’t too much fun. I passed just a couple of people on the way up, but most people follow the standard stages and I expected that O’Cebreio to have cleared out by the time I arrived. 

I could see the mud on the trail from the day before.

The sun made a brief appearance which I appreciated, but it was fleeting. 

I passed an emotional waypoint as I crossed into Galicia! Always a special moment on any Camino in Spain as it signifies that you are getting closer to Santiago. 

About 2 kms from the summit I was greeted by the expected rain which was swept in by very heavy winds. It was pretty tough walking...

...but then I arrived.

...and took shelter in the beautiful little church. Not for the first time did I wonder why anyone would live up here where it’s so exposed to the elements. 

Ken, Annemarie, Jen and I stayed up here on a wet, cold, windy night and it was fun to visit, but very briefly because it was doing all those things again and it was colder! So I went over the top and started across the ridge and the wind was pretty crazy, blowing me around as I walked. Eventually the rain stopped for a while.

 


It’s been a brutal fall and scenes like this greeted me all day. Trees down everywhere.



I reached a landmark statue and I knew how he felt. A couple who were posing for photos snapped on of me. Yes I know I look a bit haggard, but C’est Camino! 

Shortly afterwards all hell broke loose and the wind fired up and brought the rain. No kidding, the rain was going sideways most of the time. I stored my camera. I caught up to many pilgrims, some hiding in the bars and others in farmers barns trying to stay dry. I decided that it was just wishful thinking and I put my head down and through walked. It meant I missed lunch, but to me there’s nothing worse than going inside, stripping all your gear and outer clothes off and then putting all that wet stuff on again. So I through walk in the rain most times. I stay warm that way and I can eat when I arrive. We are all different:)

I wish I could show you the rain. It was something else. Even the folks in town were saying the same today. But of course as I neared town the rain stopped for a while and the sun came out. Never fails! 

An umbrella that didn’t survive.


Annemarie again...

The Big Climbs: Having passed through O Cebreiro, Geoff has now completed all of the big climbs on this journey. There were seven in total, with the highest being the Somport pass and the steepest being O Cebreiro. How he has approached each climb has largely been dictated by the weather.  Earlier in the walk, due to the heat, we tried to plan the climbs for early in the day. When the temperature moderated (over the Somport pass), we aimed for clear weather, and as the weather has cooled, Geoff has worked to go over the climb earlier in the day so that he could his day lower down to avoid the coldest temperatures. For people with Alzheimer’s and their caregivers, the climbs and how they are approached serve as a metaphor for the bigger changes and challenges they encounter along the way. How these are approached depends not on the weather, but on the supports and services available to them. Where supports are available (good weather), they may choose to linger at the top, but where supports are sparse (poorer weather), they may have to push through to get back down to level ground. Like the weather, the timing of these big challenges is rarely predicable, but planning ahead as much as possible helps.

Now time to get my gear sorted and get a bit of rest.  Everyone had wet feet that I’ve spoken with. Mine were pretty dry which was nice. There is a major storm arriving tomorrow night ( Friday) so I plan a long day tomorrow and hope to make it close to Portomarin. So the post will likely be a bit later than usual. I feel like it’s time to wrap up this Camino as I’ve been on the road almost 50 days and a rest would be nice:) 137 kms to go and with luck and not too much mud and puddles I hope to get to Santiago in 4-5 days. It would be nice.

Buen Camino!