Étape 31: Estella - Los Arcos: 22 kms, Sunny, wind, 19

Dos Bulls!

A short easy stage today. We planned the first three stages to Logroño before leaving home as we wanted to retrace a few of the places we stayed in 2013 and relive some of the memories too. For Annemarie it was a chance to retrace her steps across a section of the Camino where she was really suffering and to enjoy that what she didn’t the first time. We had a very nice morning and were in Los Arcos by noon. We could have walked on, but we aren’t in any hurry as we drag our feet knowing tomorrow will be Annemarie’s last stage.

Of course you have to stop for the free wine or at the very least for a photo with the free wine dispenser. We didn’t indulge as we knew that there wasn’t that much wine put out each day and we watched as some peregrinos filled whole bottles. Of course the more experienced would know that, a) then you have to carry a kilogram of liquid all day if you don’t drink and walk, and b) that it’s fairly low quality wine. For a ridiculously cheap price you can stop later and have a very good glass of aged Rioja vino tinto.  My eyes were closed, but know that I was savouring the yeasty nose!

Shortly afterwards we walked past the camp ground where we stopped previously. Some good memories there.

We both felt a certain pleasure today as we walked familiar trails. 

A favourite place.

A taste from the land.

I’ve had to leave the albergue where the broadband wifi was overwhelmed by the peregrino streaming stuff. Now settled in a small bar with a nice glass of wine and I’ll continue. Hopefully.

So nice to be here in time for the grapes! Our friends Ian and Erica walked through here about 3 weeks ago and found grapes, apparently many of them, and I was concerned that the harvest might have happened. We cross from Navarro to Rioja tomorrow, so I’m excited for that! 

Practicing my selfie shots with Annemarie leaving...Rob taught me this shot:)

We arrive in Los Arcos.

Stop at a pharmacy where a nice peregrina helps me to make my request and then we start off down the street. I take this photo to show Neil where I found a brace for his knee in 2013. 

As I’m walking away a lady starts shouting at me and shows me a sign somewhere in said store that says no photos and actually wants me to delete the photo of the front of her store. Her son comes out and I explain to him the memory I want to share. He says it’s ok and that his mother is upset people take her t-shirt labels and reproduce them. Nope, definitely not interested in a t-shirt. It’s obviously been a long season as most albergues and business prepare to close in a week. Then the pickings will be thinner. Mom has still lost it, but we walk on. That said, I get her frustration. I just watched two English speaking peregrinos come in and try to ask for a wine bottle cork as a souvenir. Really? Why not buy a bottle, drink it with your dinner and keep the cork? Walking Camino is actually quite funny sometimes.

We all sat here having beers last time we passed through. It was a much hotter day and the beers were pretty wonderful! So many more peregrinos then. We are definitely late season, but still I’m surprised by how many we see. 

We forgot just how beautiful the inside of the church is.



Last time we were here Annemarie needed medical help and the aubergue operator told us to look for the dos bulls, two bulls. We looked everywhere and then I asked for help to find a doctor from the civil gardia (police) and they cleared the crowd for us and officially escorted us to the clinic. The dos bulls, turned out to be...

We’ve met some nice folks so far. Many have seen each other for 6 days, but I’ll soon fit in with the herd and find my place. I’m not going to race these last 3 weeks unless it’s to try and stay ahead of weather or something annoying:)  This is a special journey that I will walk until either I no longer can, or I reach Santiago. 

Appreciating the Moment: Frequently when we are nearing the end of something our heads automatically go to the next thing. Along the trail today we met with a father/daughter duo, and the father noted that he is trying very hard to drink in every moment of this very special trip. For Geoff and I this has also been an incredible journey together, and for me it ends tomorrow. For the first time at the end of the walk, this saddens me - on all other occasions I’ve been ready for the next thing. Today and tomorrow we are both particularly focussed on enjoying these moments together. For people with Alzheimer’s, and those who care for them, appreciating the moments becomes a special practice. With the knowledge that the disease is progressive, times when the person you love still remembers your name, when they share a joke or memory, when then individual can still enjoy a favoured activity; all of these become moments to be savoured. From my earlier conversations with Kathy, I am aware that for the person with Alzheimer’s the focus becomes increasingly on the present, and enjoying each moment, and in my minds eye I carry a picture of her stopping regularly on our walks to just drink it in. If there is a silver lining to Alzheimer’s, it is this greater appreciation of each moment. 

 I believe Annemarie wrote this poem on our first Camino. It still applies.

Staying "Here"

The closer we get to the end of our walk, the harder it is to stay present

We think ahead to achieving our goal, beginning to be proud of our accomplishment

We have also started to think about home, and all that waits for us there

But we need to focus on enjoying these last few days as much as we dare

While we feel the Camino has given us both what we need

We know it's not done with us yet, their is still more to come, indeed!

These last few days are characterized by more traffic on the paths

And as we weave our way through,  some draw our wrath

Then we remind ourselves of the Camino spirit, remember to breathe, just let it go

(Hopefully not while passing a farm - we are regularly assaulted by manure smells you know)

We forget to be grateful for the simple pleasures of the day

It was supposed to rain today, but the rain stayed away! 

This all has the effect of limiting our opportunities for meditative walking

Our minds go to the usual worries, and we begin talking

About the end of the trip, and what we will do when we return

So we made a pact with ourselves with the intent to turn

The train of our thoughts, to focus on the here and now

Enjoy what this day brings, not the manure, but the beauty of the cow...

I leave you today with this photo specially for my friend Louise. Life continues and we try very hard to enjoy each moment, even if it’s just a little something beside the path.